Interview with Toni, The Microbrand Expert
Isotope is more than just a watch brand; it’s about the collectors and enthusiasts within the watch community. Recently, we came across a YouTube video that featured our brand as one of the top 25 small, independent European watch brands. This feature was part of a comprehensive three-part series that included the Top 25 American brands, Top 25 Asian and Australian brands, and Top 25 European Microbrands. This marks the beginning of a new series of blog posts that will spotlight the people behind the watches. We are excited to introduce Toni from The Microbrand Expert YouTube Channel.
Q. Can you tell us a bit about yourself?
Hello, Marc. First of all, thank you for the invitation. Allow me to say "Hi" to your readers! My name is Toni, and I’m a 51-year-old Romanian who has traveled extensively. For the past 15 years, I have worked in industrial sales, and for the past five years, I have also been a puppeteer. Additionally, I worked as a photographer on cruise ships around the world, lived illegally in New York City for two years while working as a pizza delivery driver and waiter, and resided (legally) in Cyprus, England, and Scotland. I survived a "Widowmaker" heart attack (STEMI), and I have a beautiful 11-year-old daughter named Luna. I love animals, and I am allergic to hay.
Q. How did you get into watches?
Although my grandfather was an avid collector of various items—more of a hoarder, really—his collection included watches. I didn’t truly appreciate them until 2018. What started as a casual interest blossomed into a passion during the lockdown, when I found myself immersed in countless YouTube videos about watches.
Q. What inspired you to start a YouTube channel?
My interest in this hobby stemmed from a combination of factors. Like many others, I connected with fellow enthusiasts mainly online. As my knowledge of watches deepened, I became increasingly frustrated with the superficial content produced by most creators. Additionally, I was eager to share my insights through the lens of my background in art and history. Ultimately, my motivation stems from a desire to educate myself and others.
Q. What's the process behind a review? How long does it take?
Every review begins with me wearing the watch for a few days. After that, I conduct a video session where I capture most of my B-roll. This also allows me to take a closer look at the details I may have missed. The next step is often the hardest: writing the copy. Since English is not my first language and I strive to be as thorough and comprehensive as possible, this stage takes between 6 and 8 hours, spread over a couple of days.
Once the copy is finalized, I spend an hour or two recording the voiceover and mastering the audio. The final day involves another 5 to 6 hours, during which I shoot the A-roll while playing back the narration, edit the video, export it, and publish. In total, the entire process typically takes between 14 and 16 hours.
However, there have been instances where I’ve spent nearly double that time, particularly on the three Top 25 videos ranking the best microbrands in the world. I seriously doubt I will undertake such a time-consuming project again.
Q. Your channel focuses on microbrands, but what are your thoughts on mainstream brands? Are there any that particularly catch your interest?
I'm a big fan of high horology. Brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bovet, and MB&F captivate me— I could admire those intricate timepieces for hours. I can only imagine how incredible it would be to handle one. However, since those brands aren't exactly "mainstream," I want to highlight Longines. I believe they currently offer the best value for money, combining a strong heritage with beautiful designs. The only exception, in my opinion, is the HydroConquest; that model has always been, and likely will continue to be, subjectively unattractive.
Q. How do you set your channel apart from all of the others in the same space?
For casual viewers, the content is likely the starting point. Focusing almost exclusively on independent watchmaking is indeed unusual — it's a niche within a niche. Many in the community have remarked on the thoroughness of my reviews. When I say "thorough," I don't mean endless shots of me using calipers.
Perhaps the most significant distinction is this: I have never paid for clicks or purchased subscribers. Not once. While I know that many others have done so, I refuse to lie, cheat, or manipulate my way to growing my channel.
Q. With over 140 videos and nearly half a million views on YouTube, which of your videos has gotten the most eyeballs? Do you know why? (I have a reel on IG that has gained over 150K views, and I don’t know why, and cannot replicate it)
I know exactly which video and why it’s significant. My stubborn refusal to chase after popular trends is likely why my growth doesn't match that of more established channels. However, it's also what keeps me connected to the microbrand community. The video in question is my review of the Casio MTP-M305, the moon phase watch often referred to as the “Apple Watch killer,” which launched in spring 2024.
I received one from the very first batch and knew it would attract attention. Five hundred days later, it remains one of my top five most-viewed videos each month. However, I realized that 99% of those viewers weren’t watch enthusiasts; they were just casual consumers. As a result, I decided to stop covering Casio (and AliExpress brands, for that matter). I would rather stay relevant to a smaller community and maintain my integrity.
Q. What does your watch collection consist of?
This year has seen significant downsizing due to the current economy. I went from owning 30 timepieces last year to just three: an Albert Villa Eternal, which was a gift from a fellow Romanian brand owner; a birth-year Citizen Leopard that I purchased for my 50th birthday; and the one watch I regretted selling – the Traska Commuter 36, which I managed to buy back.
Despite this, I can’t complain. Each week, I receive one or two watches on my desk for review.
Q. Since I mentioned your three-part mini-series earlier, now that we've discussed your views on "the best," do you have any personal favorites? Sometimes those can be quite different.
I have proclaimed it from the rooftops: Isotope is currently the best among the lot. While there are other brands I admire, many microbrands today often appear as mere paint-by-numbers assemblies of off-the-shelf parts. However, two brands stand out to me.
The first is Havaan Tuvali. Each new collection begins with dusty old boxes that have been abandoned in warehouses for decades. Eric Yeh’s mission is to repurpose new old stock (NOS) cases, calibers, and components that were left behind in Taiwan when manufacturers shifted their operations to China. It’s like a fairytale where unwanted toys finally bring joy to people everywhere.
The second brand hasn’t even launched its first watch yet, but its story is equally compelling. Almost two years ago, Vlad, a young lawyer, set out to revive Romania’s old communist-era watch company, Orex. Upon discovering that there was no existing infrastructure or know-how, he taught himself watchmaking from scratch—learning everything from case building to perlage. He also sourced old machinery for his workshop, and when a machine was too expensive, he invented his adaptors and tools. He has documented this journey HERE, and I can’t wait to create a video about it.
Q. What tips do you have for new collectors exploring exciting small independent watch brands (we prefer this term instead of microbrands)?
Be wealthy or have patience. If I had the money, I could easily spend $100K tomorrow on independent watches I would love to own. However, in our culture of instant gratification—and with some brands exploiting fear of missing out (FOMO)—patience can be challenging.
That said, being patient pays off. Your taste hopefully evolves, and many trends turn out to be short-lived fads. Impulsive buying often leads to a collection of watches you no longer want, and most of us have experienced that. On the other hand, buying a Submariner homage and trying to flip it a few months later might be a rite of passage.
Additionally, conduct thorough research and select your sources carefully. If you enjoy a reviewer’s perspective, subscribe to their content to hear their thoughts on other pieces as well. Reverse engineer your process by letting reviewers recommend lesser-known watches instead of seeking validation for your existing choices.
Q. If someone asked you to help them choose a field watch, a pilot watch, and a dive watch, which ones would you recommend for each category?
For divers, I recommend the Tuseno Shellback. It’s one of the best watches I’ve reviewed and, by far, the top choice for a dive watch under $1,000. If you prefer a vintage aesthetic, any watch from Horizon would be a great option.
For a field watch, I suggest the Traska Venturer. It offers excellent legibility and features a modern twist on a classic design, with 150m water resistance, scratch resistance, and a GMT function. Alternatively, the Boldr Expedition I is also an outstanding choice.
For aviation watches, Damasko’s DS30 is a fantastic, modern take on the flieger style. If budget isn’t a concern, any watch from Zero West would also be worth considering.
Q. Where do you see your channel in 5-10 years? Any plans to expand your offerings? (merch, blog, store)
For about six months, I managed a website that featured written versions of my video reviews, accompanied by my photos and interviews with brand owners. However, I found it to be time-consuming, and it did not help drive traffic to my videos, so I decided to shut it down.
I have almost quit my channel twice due to disappointing viewership, but each time I returned with renewed enthusiasm. The challenge is that YouTube’s algorithm heavily favors established creators, which can be discouraging, as impressions often plateau after 30 hours, regardless of a video's performance.
That said, I would be delighted to offer consulting services to small brands. I’ve gained valuable insights into what goes on behind the scenes for a successful campaign, and I have a good eye for designs that tend to be popular. Unfortunately, many brands still view reviews as mere marketing tools and rarely seek genuine feedback. I often wonder where they learned that approach.
Q. Selfishly, we are curious. Do you have a favorite Isotope watch?
While I appreciate the Moonshot and the recent Mercury editions, the original Mercury will always be the masterpiece that truly opened my eyes to what Isotope represents. I've been aware of the brand for five years, but that watch came the closest to rivaling the notable names in haute horlogerie that I mentioned earlier. Reading Jose's blog about the work behind it helped me understand why—there's genuine soul in that watch, something that many microbrands fail to capture, even in their most ambitious pieces. I have a feeling that next year, Isotope will celebrate a decade of excellence in style.
Q. Closing out this interview, how about a piece of advice for anyone collecting anything out there? What have you learned from your journey that you hope others will find in theirs?
I want to revisit the topic of patience. Instant gratification often leads to mistakes, and I genuinely believe that a collection needs time to develop and mature. It’s a common saying that the journey is more important than the destination, and this perspective is essential. Taking the time to appreciate the process helps prevent burnout, losing interest, or becoming a mindless hoarder.
Toni, it has been a true pleasure getting to know you. I hope our readers enjoy this type of content, as we plan to produce many more interviews with people in our wonderful community. Wishing you much success, my new friend! Everyone, please visit The Microbrand Expert on YouTube now!
– Team Isotope